I would like to thank all of my follows and everyone who enjoys reading my blog. After spending over two years in Paris studying Haute Couture, I have started another blog that highlights the couture industry and those that create the beautiful one of a kind pieces. From behind the scenes at the ateliers, to front row at Couture Week, I will bring you the latest in world of Haute Couture. Glimpse can be found at www.glimpsecreations.com
Glimpse is a website dedicated to showcasing craft, and the age old techniques used in couture fashion. Craft is a dying trade, and this website aims to bring light upon handmade items and the artisans who make them. Haute Couture fashion brings together many of the remaining Parisian atelier houses that still use the same craft techniques as when they first opened their doors. Many of these craft houses have been around for over 100 years, but are being threatened by retiring workers, a younger generation unwilling to learn the work, and cheaper work being available overseas. I intend to bring light on this little known world of artists and creators and give readers an inside view of the atelier houses that support the Couture industry. From beading and embroidery to millinery and shoe making, this website will showcase artists and ateliers and even share some DIY ideas.
The DIY section will offer patterns and projects for handmade items that range from beginner to advanced. Below is an example of a project that is on the site that you can find in the Crafts DIY section on the website.
I will continue to write this blog about my adventures in Paris, but you can now also find the same stories under "A Glimpse of Paris" on my new blog. I would really appreciate it if you took a minute to check out the new site and let me know what you think! It is still in start up phase, but I will be adding projects and articles daily!
Haute Couture in Paris means beautiful handcrafted clothes, and Georges Hobeika went above and beyond this at his Spring 2012 Couture show. I was one of the lucky few who got an invitation to the show at the beautiful Le Meurice hotel. Flowing chiffon dresses and soft pastel colors showed femininity and sensuality throughout the collection. A creative touch was created with beautiful intricate embroidery and beadwork meant to reference the beauty and grace of an orchid. I was so lucky to be sitting front row at this show as I was able to see the beadwork and embroidery up close. The amount of beads used on the pieces and the workmanship was incredible. The collection showed unique embroidery and beadwork techniques, that adorned the pieces around the neck, on the shoulders and even trailing down the front.
This was one of my favorite shows for the S/S 2012 Couture collection this season. The elegant and feminine pieces were beautiful and easy to wear. I hope we see some of these pieces walking down a red carpet sometime soon! This designer knows how to create an old fashion glamor with a modern approach.
The flowing pieces created with chiffon and silk organza were beautiful, and some pieces had ripped and feathered pieces of fabric to create the illusion of real feathers. Folded and pleated fabrics had a sculptural feel, yet still remained soft and feminine. The pastel mint green color was stunning, and the pale yellow was flattering and a nice hue that anyone could wear.
Overall, this show was one of my all time favorites. It was full of feminine, beautiful pieces with fabulous beadwork and embroidery. It ended with a stunning wedding gown that was fully embroidered from top to bottom with beads and flowers. It was the perfect ending to a perfect collection.
December 1, 2011 was a sad day for those in the fashion industry. Master of Couture embroidery, François Lesage, aged 82 passed away after a long battle with illness. M. Lesage was a true visionary in the fashion industry.
Tucked away in the attic rooms of a five story building, overlooked by Sacre Coeur, you will find Lesage, Europe’s most celebrated beadwork and embroidery house. These tiny rooms hold drawers and boxes filled with more than 60 tons of beads, sequins, threads and 100 year old jet. Here, over 50 women are employed to create the intricate embroidery and beadwork seen on the haute couture gowns that line the Parisian runways.
Since taking over the family business in 1949, François had been the head of the world's most famous embroidery salon. Although he admitted that he could not thread a needle let alone sew a button, the Lesage atelier produced over 80% of all beadwork and embroidery seen on the couture runways. Under Lesage's leadership, the house had acquired such prestigious clients as Dior, Yves Saint Laruent, Givenchy, and Christian Lacroix.
When hard times hit Lesage in 2002, Chanel bought up the atelier along with four other atelier's of the industry’s key suppliers as part of its bid to ensure the survival of the "petites mains," or artisans. François still stayed on as head of Lesage and oversaw the daily productions of the house until his death.
With an embroiderer father and fashion colorist mother, Lesage joked that he was "born on a mound of pearls and glitter". Mr. Lesage was revered for maintaining the couture craft and its tradition of making every stitch and attaching every bead by hand. Unfortunately, hand beadwork and embroidery is a dying trade. The number of artisans is diminishing for a few reasons including, crafts workers retiring, a younger generation unwilling to carry on family tradition, and cheaper labor being available overseas. M. Lesage was a leader in trying to revive the craft and keep the tradition going when he opened Ecole Lesage.
Lesage founded his embroidery school, Ecole Lesage, in 1992 next to his Paris workshop to pass on the craft to the next generation. I attended Ecole Lesage in 2009 for the Professional Couture Embroidery and Beadwork course, and was truly lucky to meet M. Lesage a few times. There were two times when he walked through the classroom and personally checked my work and embroidery stitches. I feel honored to have been able to meet such legend. Inside the Lesage atelier, I had the opportunity to see hundreds of vintage embroidery samples originally made for designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Lacroix. It was a once in a lifetime experience that I will never forget.
Even though M. Lesage no longer owned the atelier, he was still very much involved in the designing and daily running of the atelier. I also saw him attending the past few Chanel runway shows in Paris where he was known for sharing insights with front-row neighbors on the craftsmanship in the clothes.
A week before his passing, Lesage was awarded the title of Maître d'Art, "art master" by the French culture ministry, giving him a chance to "say goodbye", said a spokeswoman for his workshop. He was also made an officer of the Légion d'Honneur in 2007.
I hope Lesage will continue to thrive as France's oldest and most well known embroidery atelier in honor of François Lesage. Couture beadwork and embroidery is one of the most beautiful and intricate art forms that transforms fashion into wearable pieces of art.
The atelier will continue on under the direction of Chanel, and continue to produce beautiful couture embroidery pieces for the fashion world.
Just thought I would share a piece that I am currently working on! This is a couture embroidered piece that will soon be turned into a clutch purse. The hand embroidery is done with a Luneville hook which is the technique that I learned at Lesage, (an atelier house owned by Chanel). It is created with glass beads, sequins, threads and vintage silk.
This piece was inspired by the Monet Iris jacket that Lesage made for Yves Saint Laurent. This is such a wonderful piece, I really wanted to capture a essence of the original jacket in my embroidery.
Once I am finished the final product, I will post more pictures!
Rasa Jurenas is a multi award winning hairstylist and make-up artist, including the Canadian Hairstylist of the Year, 2006. She has just released her latest collections titled, "Golden Sun" and "Fashion Crimes," which feature jewelry by Glimpse Creations! Visit www.rasajurenas.com for more information about Studio Rasa. Her latest collection titled "Fashion Crimes" features a couture embroidered Swarovski necklace that I created specifically for Studio Rasa. For more information about my jewelry please visit www.glimpsebeads.com
This morning I couldn't resist but go back to the Marche Puces Porte Vanves antique market. Last week I came across a lady who had bought up a lot of supplies from the Christian Lacroix atelier when it closed. I had to go back this week and have a better look through all her boxes of treasures! I must have spend about half an hour going though all of the beads, sequins, buttons, threads and metal pieces. I ended up purchasing a few pieces to incorporate into my jewelry designs! Each piece I got is stamped with the Christan Lacroix logo. I really liked how the butterfly and dragonfly each feature one beautiful hand painted ceramic wing. I can't wait to get designing!! If you are interested in a piece of jewelry incorporating any of these Christian Lacroix pieces, please contact me at glimpsecreations@yahoo.com or visit my website at www.glimpsebeads.com
Christian Lacroix is a french designer who was well known for his Haute Couture line which sadly closed in 2009. Personally I loved Christian Lacroix's Haute Couture designs. They were bold, fantasy creations, which is what Haute Couture is really all about! He was known for his theatrical style which came from his work while in the theater. Lacroix was also a great supporter of Paris atelier houses including Lesage who did many embroideries for the couture line. Below are some images from Christian Lacroix's collections from throughout his career.
Yesterday morning I woke up early to go to the Marche Puces Porte Vanves, Paris Antiques Flea Market. I was looking forward to going all week and was excited about what treasures I could find for my jewelry. This antique market stretches along two main streets and offers everything from vintage furniture to dishes and silverware.
After strolling along the first strip, I came upon one lady who was selling sewing and jewelry supplies. As I started looking through the boxes of supplies that she was selling, I realized that I had come upon something very special. The lady who owned the stall then explained that the supplies were from Christian Lacroix's atelier. She had bought a bunch of the supplies when the atelier had closed down after going bankrupt. After hearing this, I was in heaven. Christian Lacroix is easily one of my top three favorite Couture designers. As my boyfriend was with me, I couldn't spend hours going through all the boxes so I will be going back next weekend by myself! I did find a magnificent gold filigree round 16mm bead that the lady who owned the stall ended up giving to me for free! I think she realized how excited I was to find her treasures! Can't wait to return this weekend and spend some time going through all her boxes of supplies!
The market is very interesting for browsing and treasure hunting. There were vintage Hermes scarves, Chanel bags, and Lanvin shoes. The fabric stalls with old embroideries were also very interesting, and old textile sample squares that had been matted and framed ready to hang on my wall! If only I could win the lottery!!!
I found some sparkling old chandelier glass drops that would be great for Christmas decorations! There were interesting pieces everywhere I looked, including old stamping blocks and beautiful ribbons.
Overall, this market is a great way to spend your Sunday mornings. Some of the vendors do start packing up as early as 11:30am so make sure you get there early!
Pick up your copy of "A Needle Pulling Thread Magazine" at your bookstore!! Below is a preview of my article in this month's publication all about couture embroidery. This is the second article in a series of three that I wrote for the magazine. What are you waiting for!?? Go get your copy today!!
Unfortunately, I am in England this week and have missed Paris Couture Week. That means I am not able to attend any shows or blog about street style. I can however still gush over the beautiful creations that were shown on the catwalks of a few of my favorite designers.
Karl never disappoints me with Chanel. The designs were stunning as usual. This season's show had a theme of Place Vendome complete with street lamps even large Coco Chanel statue which replaced Napoleon at the top of the central obelisk.
Chanel certainly kept its atelier busy with this collection, showing dresses dripping in crystals and sequins. Form fitting gowns with exposed backs and shoulders were paired with high necklines to create unusual shapes.
Another of my favorites Armani Privé, was inspired by Japan for this collection and showed the usual grace and chic style that the brand is known for. Feminine and graceful, this collection showed pieces that were alive with color and floral motifs. Beautiful silhouettes were created and topped with Philip Treacy’s architectural head pieces.
I must say that I was totally disappointed in Dior this season. This being the first couture show without John Galliano, all eyes were on the collection. Bill Gaytten, Galliano's assistant for 23 years stepped in and tried to continue Dior's legendary couture show. Personally, I think he really missed the mark. The designs for this season were like something out of "Bozo the clown's" closet. It was certainly a trip to the circus that I did not enjoy! What did you think of the collection?
Another favorite of mine is Elie Saab. The feminine, graceful designs that the Lebanese designer shows, always seems to win me over every time. The flowing gowns drenched in crystals are quickly becoming a favorite for Hollywood stars on the red carpet. If only my bank balance would allow me to afford one of these stunning gowns!
